Back from Puno and Lake Titicaca, I took a day to readjust from my sea (lake) legs to the lower elevations and pavement of Arequipa. There were two things I was considering during my 6 day stay in the Arequipa area - the Colca Canyon and a possible attempt to climb El Misti, the 19,000’ volcano just a few kilometers outside of the city. 

Arranging for tours in Peru is quite easy. All you have to do is step out the front door of your hostal and into the place next door and chances are they can help you out. Out for a walk and some lunch, I came across Colca Trek, a company I’d read about in my Lonely Planet: Peru guidebook. Though the price seemed a bit high, I decided to just go for it as the comfort of the bus trip and the hotel I’d stay at would be a nice change of pace from my $10 hostal in Arequipa. I was to be picked up at around 8am the next day along with 15 or so others and we’d make our way (with many stops) towards the Colca Canyon. Climbing into the van, I was greeted by the French family of four that had been on my trip to Amantani a couple of days before. This has become more than common, running into the same people time and again on this trip. Its always nice to see a familiar face.

Stopping probably a dozen times on the 4 hour drive to Chivay, the gateway town to the Colca Canyon, we came across my first Vicunas of the trip and hundreds of Alpaca and Llama that seemed to be wild, but belonged to large farms throughout the area. Driving over a pass that peaked at over 16,000’, we stopped along the roadside to have some Coca and Chachacoma tea (very minty and good!) to help with the altitude gain. Chivay is set in the valley at the edge of the Canyon. I’d opted to stay in the smaller, less touristy town of Yanque, a 10 minute drive further, along with Alexandra an American working in Lima. After a huge buffet lunch in Chivay we made it to our hotel where I could surely take a nap and have a bit of a rest after the big meal. After 5 minutes, we were told to meet out by the hammocks where we’d depart on a walk up to the farming terraces and pre-inca ruins near Yanque. Struggling a bit, I soon found a rhythm and the walk turned out to be quite nice. It was nearing sunset and we came across a nice, quiet grouping of ruins set on the hillside known as Uyo-Uyo. When the Spanish settled in the area, they burned down the structures and rebuilt on the other side of the river. Continuing on, we walked through empty farmland that the locals were beginning to plant with beans, corn and other traditional crops. A call from one of the fields and we were summoned over for a cup of Chicha. As you’ve probably seen on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations or any similar show, Chicha is a fermented corn drink made by the local women who begin the fermentation process by chewing corn (or other grains) and spitting them out then allowing them ferment for a week or two. The situation couldn’t have been better and I knew I’d probably never have a chance (or want to) try the drink again, so I gave it a shot. Emptying a small amount as an offering to the earth, I downed a large glass of the concoction before we were off again walking towards the much anticipated hot springs where we soaked away our high altitude hiking pains. A 30 minute walk back to the hotel and we enjoyed a wonderful meal before retiring early.

Another early start and we were on our way to Mirador de la Cruz del Condor, an area of the Colca Canyon known so well as the place to see Andean Condors. Arriving along with a dozen other tour buses, our guide pointed us to an area that was a little quieter and a good spot for seeing the birds. For 90 minutes we sat on the edge of our seats (well, rocks) in anticipation of the giant animals flying directly overhead or near the edge of the drop-off into the Canyon. Camera ready, I wasn’t fast enough to capture the first of many passes only a few meters away. The animals seemed to enjoy the crowd and showed off flying high overhead, then circling around from the opposite side, closer each time. In all, about 6-7 different condors of varying sizes wowed everyone during our short stay. A highlight of the trip to the canyon and of my time in Peru, it was an amazing experience not to be forgotten.