one of the moeraki boulders

Making my way into Dunedin, I was shut out in an attempt to land a hostel bed for the night so decided to take my chances on finding a spot at a holiday park on the Otago Peninsula. This worked well as I was then situated better for the next days wanderings around the wildlife rich and beautiful beaches it's well known for. After finding a site in Portobello, I headed out towards the Royal Albatross Centre to watch these huge birds fly around the cliffs close to the building (the free version of visiting the Centre).

The next day I set off to do a couple of walks starting off with Harbour Cone, the highpoint of the Peninsula. With views in every direction it was the perfect place to gain orientation for the rest of the day. Setting out next for the Sandfly Bay track, I made a wrong turn and not really caring ended up at the end of a desolate and impossibly picturesque bay, Hoopers Inlet. By chance or fate while looking at a map to find out how to get back to Sandfly Bay, Dawn and Janne from Wales and Holland, walked around the corner also looking for directions. Having taken a bus from Dunedin and being a bit out of their way, I offered a ride to the other side of Otago Peninsula. We ended up spending the rest of the afternoon hanging out, seeing ONE penguin, several seals and an endless number of incredible views along the coasts and inland hills.

sandfly bay

I'd landed in Christchurch and made a beeline with my campervan rental towards Mt. Cook National Park. My first views of the mountain (and only it as it turned out) were from Lake Tekapo, Southwest of the Park. I booked a site along Lake Pukaki and headed towards Mt. Cook Village to get my bearings and plan a walk or two while there. The new Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Center seemed right up my alley and I'd end up visiting a couple of times over the next two days. The film (not in the main theatre) about his life was really interesting and left me wanting to read more about the adventure seeking man. Mt. Cook was his base for training for his eventual summit of Mt. Everest and all his other journeys.

I decided that the hike up the Hooker Valley was best suited for the rainy day I'd been given and took off on the 3 hour hike. Despite the rain and fog, the views through the valley and of the Hooker Glacier were fantastic as was the chance to stretch my legs a bit. I missed being able to take in the beauty that only a majestic peak like Mt. Cook can have but there's always next time!

Travelator - Moving Walkway

Chillie Bin - that's a cooler to you.

Thundery Falls - Thunderstorm. I like this one. It's just more fun to hear on the weather report.

Rubbish - Trash. An obvious, but important one to know.

Good As/Sweet As - Very Good or Great

Hokey Pokey - A flavor of ice cream that's pretty tasty.

Section - Lots, as in 'Sections/Lots for Sale'

Works End - End of Construction

Give Way - Yield. Most common at roundabouts and replaces the stop sign in most cases.

Courier Post - Post Office

Hire - Rent

O.N.O (or nearest offer). - O.B.O. (or best offer)

Girl Guide Bisquits - Girl Scout Cookies

NZ - Pronounced 'enzed', the term for New Zealand, of course

Takeaway - To Go

Tramp - A Long Hike or Trek

Motorway - Highway or Expressway

Well Poled Track - Well Marked Trail

Tane - Man

Good on ya - Thanks or to show gratitude. Mostly used by gas station attendents :)

• Chocolate - Snow Patrol
All of Snow Patrols songs are just big, epic journeys. Makes sense.

• F-Stop Blues - Jack Johnson
I've been reintroduced to Jack Johnson while in New Zealand. Whether it's the surfing towns or just the laid back attitude here, his music just feels right when you're watching the sunset over a beautiful beach or while in a small surfing town South of Auckland.

• Drive On - Johnny Cash
Well...it's a long way around these two islands.

• Hallelujah - Jeff Buckley
When I just need a break from the junk on the radio...amazing song.

• Carol Brown - Flight of the Conchords
They're half the reason for my intrigue for New Zealand. (the other half being those perfect beaches, penguins and majestic mountains)

• Future - Zero 7
Always a favorite for Jose Gonzalez' amazing talent and the mixture of acoustic and electronic instruments.

• Chromakey Dreamcoat - Boards of Canada
Equally big sitting on a beach at sunset or driving through the mountains in Fjordland National Park, this is a song with alot of texture.

• Australia - The Shins
Close enough. I couldn't find a song called New Zealand and I did spend some time in Sydney. Can't go wrong with The Shins

• Kids - MGMT
Great song for when you need some energy. I'd like to say I've listened to this while going for a run here, but...

• Our Shangri-La - Mark Knopfler
Been listening to this since last summer. Thanks for the intro Cleve.

• The High Road - Broken Bells
New stuff I just found before taking off last month. I really like this whole album.

That's just a taste of what's on my iPod for this trip. What makes up your soundtrack?

A couple of nice side trips to Cape Egmont and a lookout near Opunake around sunset rounded out the day. I'd be making the drive to Auckland the next day and moving on to Christchurch and the South Island for the next three weeks or so.

Cape Kidnappers lies South of Napier by 30 minutes or so and is a sanctuary for the Australian Gannet during the summer and fall months. After doing some research to figure out low tide and the best time to take this long beach walk, we arrived at the start just before 11am. The walk requires 5 hours or so return and covers a distance of 20km. Most of this is on the beach with only the last small section rising to the plateau where the birds call home. The steep cliffs on one side lock you in to walking only at low tide. Surfaces range from small pebbles to soft sand and prove an easy task even given the length. The majority of people opt to take the easy way out and hire a tour on a tractor, not my thing. After about 2 hours we climbed to the top of the plateau to be welcomed by hundreds of squawking birds, most sitting on their nests, some flying above to stretch out their wings. While it was cool to see the animals, the destination gives way to the journey on this trek. The return walk was mostly about willpower and hopes of a big ice cream cone in the near future.

Reaching the peak involved a relentless uphill on loose scree and volcanic ash, not an easy task. The conical rim and single vent seemed to be in reach, but just over the next rise for nearly two hours. An ease in slope and a final push put us at the top with a view of the Crossing trail and nearby volcanoes. Peering over the edge of the rim for a few minutes before beginning the descent, I realized the way down would be much quicker, but certainly no easier. Several times I fell this way or that while sliding down the sharp volcanic rock, most often onto my rear end. Falling hard once, I sat for a minute or two in a bit of pain knowing the outcome that I’d see in the mirror the next day. Finally reaching the intersection of the main trail we took a moment to gaze back up at the accomplishment of the previous 3 hours.

The remainder of the hike seemed easy comparatively, but took willpower just the same to carry on for another 4 hours. The walk was gladly interupted by amazing views of emerald green and blue lakes and red craters along the way, the track proved to be everything imagined. I’d certainly pay for a couple of little falls over the next day or two and I think I deserve a day off. 

Arriving in Whitianga, I checked into the On the Beach Hostel and met one of my roommates, Blaine from Louisiana.  Enjoying a little down time and a walk on the beach, a few of us bought some groceries for a good pasta dinner later that evening. Several highlights of the area include side trips to Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove and Blaine and I decided to tackle these the next day. Driving 30 minutes or so, we arrived just in time to see the crowds gathering at low tide to dig their holes in the beach in search of warmer water. My expectations weren’t very high as I’d heard that the attraction drew bus loads of people, but it was very cool just the same to dig your feet into the sand to find hot tub worthy water, even burning my toes a bit in the process. The area can only be accessed for a few hours during low tide.

Down the road, we made our way to the trailhead for Cathedral Cove, another often visited beach. The 30 minute walk was a nice stretch for the legs winding through coastal fields of bush and denser trees opening onto beautiful views of the ocean and rocky shoreline. Reaching the first of side by side beaches separated only by the arched Cathedral Cove, freestanding rock formations were flanked by flat, open stretches of sand reaching back to the forest. The scene was reminiscent of one from the movie The Beach (filmed in Thailand). Less crowded than Hot Water Beach (because of the semi-steep walk?) we sat on a grouping of rocks and enjoyed a little lunch before heading back to Whitianga.

Following the fantastic directions given to me by my fellow travelers (though I did get terribly lost a bit before Tutukaka, in a good way) I found the nondescript turn off of the coastal road leading into town. After driving past beautiful modern beach houses perched high on the hills surrounding the bay, I came to a carpark owned by the DOC Reserve which managed the property and lighthouse. Reading the sign, I prepared for an hour and half return walk on a slightly cloudy, but beautiful late morning. The first 10 minutes lead through open grass and small bush before reaching an overlook down into a small bay with a black pebble beach and that bright blue water. I met only one other person on the trail descending the many steps which I knew I would have to return up later. After taking in the personal sized beach, I started the climb through a little forest leading up to the lighthouse. It had taken me just 30 minutes to reach the small building overlooking the Tutukaka Coast, but the view was worth taking in while enjoying a small lunch I’d packed. Snapping a few photos and enjoying the solitude, I headed back to the car for the rest of my drive towards Coromandel. In all, the little hike took just an hour - an hour the I owe to Jan and Sara. Thanks for the recommendation.

the area where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet

An understandable group of large tour buses greeted me along with a view that was unimaginable. To the North, the Tasman Sea and Pacific Oceans met in a violent crash of waves without the assistance of shoreline or rocks. On the Pacific side, a rocky peninsula with a 600 year old tree somehow hanging onto life jutted out into the ocean. Maori belief is that spirits descend down the rocky steps into the ocean and the area is off limits but nevertheless a beautiful view. With the Tasman Sea wrapping around another Cape to the West, and an aqua blue/green beach set into the hillside, the trail called my name. Something I’ve struggled with a bit here in New Zealand is balancing travel time with being still and enjoying the place where I am. Because of the remoteness of many areas its just a tough thing. I’d been planning to complete a loop hike from one Cape to the other and back through to an inland trail. Instead I was able to reach the sweeping beach before turning around back. With amazing places around each corner, New Zealand is a place to enjoy the moment, wherever you might be. You really can’t go wrong.

the path leading down from the carpark to the lighthouse